Day Trip to the Ancient Fortresses of Khorezm: Complete Guide

North of Khiva, across the Amu Darya, the desert of Karakalpakstan is scattered with the clay ruins of ancient Khorezm. The name of the district, Ellikqala, means "fifty fortresses". A day trip to the ancient fortresses of Khorezm is the opposite of the tiled madrasas of Khiva: wide open space, silence and walls that have stood since centuries before Christ. This guide explains which fortresses you see, how the day runs and how to prepare.

Key facts

• Where: the Ellikqala area of Karakalpakstan, north of Khiva and Urgench across the Amu Darya.
• Start: Khiva or Urgench, with a private driver in a sedan.
• Time needed: a full day.
• Sites on our route: Dumon Kala, Guldursun Kala, Angka Kala, Janbas Kala, Ayaz Kala, Akchakul Lake, Toprak Kala and Kizil Kala.
• Status: the Desert Castles of Ancient Khorezm are on UNESCO's Tentative List for World Heritage.
• Good for: history and archaeology lovers, photographers, travellers who want to leave the crowds behind.
• Prices: depend on group size and season — see the tour page or contact us.

What the fortresses were

Ancient Khorezm was a rich oasis state on the lower Amu Darya. Its farmers depended on irrigation canals, and its rulers protected the fields, the canals and the trade routes with a network of fortified towns, castles and watchtowers built of mud brick and rammed earth. When rivers and canals shifted, settlements were abandoned to the desert — which is why so many walls still stand in the sand today.

The sites are not all of one age. The oldest, such as Janbas Kala and the first Ayaz Kala fortress, were begun in the 4th century BC. Toprak Kala and Kizil Kala belong to the first centuries AD, while Guldursun Kala was built in the 7th–8th centuries on older foundations and used again in the 12th–13th centuries.

The fortresses on the route

Ayaz Kala

Three fortresses on and below a steep hill, the most dramatic site of the area. The climb to the upper fortress takes a few minutes on a sandy path and gives wide views over the desert and the salt flats. The oldest of the three dates from the 4th century BC.

Toprak Kala

A fortified city and royal residence covering about 17 hectares. Archaeologists found a palace on a raised citadel with a throne hall, a fire temple and an armoury; it is one of the largest monumental buildings of its period in Central Asia.

Kizil Kala

A compact square fort with thick walls, close to Toprak Kala. It was built and used in the first centuries AD and restored in the 12th century.

Janbas Kala, Guldursun Kala and the others

Janbas Kala is a rectangular fortress whose construction began in the 4th century BC. Guldursun Kala is a large ruin with high adobe walls, and the route also includes Dumon Kala and Angka Kala. The tour also stops at Akchakul Lake, where a lakeside complex serves fresh local fish.

How the day runs

Your driver picks you up in Khiva or Urgench in the morning. The road crosses the Amu Darya into Karakalpakstan, and from there the sites are linked by country roads and short tracks across the desert. At each fortress you have time to walk the walls and climb to viewpoints. Because the area is sparsely settled, the journey itself — cotton fields, villages, salt flats and open desert — is part of the experience.

The light is softest in the morning and late afternoon, when long shadows show the texture of the clay walls. At midday in summer the sites are very hot and offer little shade.

Practical tips

• Wear closed shoes with good grip: the slopes at Ayaz Kala are sandy and steep.
• Bring a hat, sunglasses, sunscreen and plenty of water, especially from May to September.
• Spring and autumn are the most comfortable seasons; winter days are short and cold but clear.
• Stay on paths and do not climb on fragile walls; the clay erodes easily.
• Carry your passport whenever you travel between regions.
• Bring some cash in local currency for lunch and small purchases.

Plan it with TravelBliss

Our day trip to the ancient fortresses of Khorezm runs daily as a private trip with a driver from Khiva or Urgench. Combine it with a guided Khiva walking tour the day before or after, and read our Khiva walking tour guide to plan your time inside the old town. Prices depend on group size and season — see the tour page or contact us.