Gilan Village: The Hidden Mountain Jewel of Uzbekistan

Gilan Village is one of the most distinctive mountain destinations in Uzbekistan. It lies in the Hisor Mountains in the Shahrisabz district of the Kashkadarya region, close to the border with Tajikistan, and for a long time it was off limits to foreign travellers. Today you can stay with local families, walk its steep lanes and see how a community high in the mountains organises its life. This post is about the village itself — its people, houses and history; for the journey there, see our guide to Gilan village from Samarkand.

Key facts

• Where: Shahrisabz district, Kashkadarya region, in the Hisor (Gissar) Mountains near the Tajik border; about 80 km from Shahrisabz by mountain road.
• Altitude: the village spreads over a steep slope; our tour data gives about 2,100 m, and the national tourism portal gives up to 2,600 m for the highest houses.
• Names: Gilan, Gelon, Gelan.
• People: mostly Tajik-speaking families; a 2021 report by the news site Kun.uz gave about 7,000 inhabitants.
• Open to visitors: since 2018, when the border-zone restrictions for foreign tourists were lifted.
• How to visit: on our 2-day tour to Gilan from Samarkand, with a night in a village guesthouse.
• Prices: depend on group size and season — see the tour page or contact us.

Where is Gilan?

Gilan sits on the western slopes of the Pamir-Alay system, in the part known as the Hisor range, south-east of Shahrisabz. A mountain stream runs through the village down towards the Hisorak reservoir, and the last part of the road climbs through a narrow gorge. Neighbouring villages such as Kul, Sarchashma and Shut lie in the same valleys, and walks between them are part of a stay. Because of its height, the village is noticeably cooler than Samarkand and Shahrisabz in summer, and snow can fall here in spring.

A short history of Gilan

Uzbekistan's national tourism portal dates the founding of the village to 1305. Local accounts tell of families who settled in the mountains to escape the wars of the plains; treat these as village tradition rather than documented history. What is documented is the recent past: the village was in a border zone, and foreigners could not visit until the regime was relaxed in 2018. The mountain road that links it with Shahrisabz is relatively new; before it, people walked or used donkeys to reach the markets below.

The people of Gilan

Most families in Gilan are Tajik-speaking, and signs in public places are in Tajik. Life is organised around the mahalla, the neighbourhood community, and much is done by hashar — collective, unpaid work. According to the 2021 Kun.uz report, residents repair their mountain road every year by hashar and bought a bulldozer for it with state support, and one of the village's three schools was built the same way. Hospitality is a matter of pride: guests are offered tea, bread and whatever the season provides.

Houses on the mountainside

Gilan's houses are stacked one above another on the slope, so that from below the village looks terraced. Many follow an old mountain pattern described by the national tourism portal: livestock lives on the ground floor and the family above. Narrow paths and steps link the houses. Walking through the village with a local host is the easiest way to understand how it fits into such steep terrain.

Potatoes, gardens and small hydro plants

There is very little flat land, so farming happens on the slopes themselves. Gilan's potatoes are known throughout the region; families also grow fruit and vegetables on gardens that, according to the national tourism portal, reach gradients of up to 40 degrees. Ploughing is still often done with oxen or donkeys. Electricity reaches the village but can be cut; to cover the gaps, residents have built more than 50 small hydro plants on the stream, paid for by the community. Depending on the season, our guests can join in planting or harvesting.

Visiting respectfully

• Ask before photographing people, especially women and elders.
• Dress modestly: covered shoulders and knees for everyone.
• Accept tea when it is offered; it is part of the welcome.
• Bring cash for small purchases; this is a remote village.
• Expect no mobile signal in parts of the mountains and plan accordingly.
• Bring warm layers, even in summer, for the evenings.

Plan it with TravelBliss

We arrange the 2-day Gilan village tour from Samarkand: the drive over the Takhtakaracha (Kitob) Pass with stops at a dried-fruit bazaar and a viewpoint, free time in Shakhrisabz, the night in a village guesthouse with dinner and breakfast, a walk through the village and lunch before the return. For more places off the usual route, read The Uzbekistan You Don't See in the Guidebooks. Prices depend on the number of travellers and the season — see the tour page or contact us.